Subtle or Soho
Makeup for day and night
By Amitee Green-Hill
Creating a good professional makeup involves a combination of the essential elements of makeup artistry. Good technique and quality products are important, choosing the best shades to suit the model's skin tone is imperative, and creating a makeup to complement the style of the model's outfit and occasion are all elements for a good result. For that extra wow factor, study the mood of the occasion and design the makeup to enhance the model's natural features, and create a makeup that really captures the essence of her personal style and the mood.
Subtle Day Makeup
Our model Natasha is meeting a girlfriend for a morning coffee: she looks fresh, feminine and relaxed in a soft, floral frock. The makeup is natural with a subtle mix of soft, warm and cool shades to enhance her skin tone and create a fresh look, with a dreamy quality. The foundation is Jojoba Liquid SPF 15 Café au Lait (how appropriate!). This foundation shade is a cooler beige, to give the skin a fresh, dewy look. Just set with a touch of Oil Controlling Loose Powder down the T-zone to last the day.
Brows are softly shaped with Dove Grey Browliner to frame the eyes well, as the eyeshadow shades used here are very soft. Touch of Peach was applied all over the eye from lash to brow as a highlighter, followed by Pink Glow from lash to socket, and Coral Peach along the lid, blending into the pink. Using soft metallic eye shadow shades during the day looks very fresh and healthy. Black Mascara adds definition, without the need for any eyeliner.
Mango Glow Blusher completes the healthy glow to the skin, applied on the apples of the cheeks to bring focus to the eyes. The lips were lined with Pretty Lip Liner applied very lightly and smudged along the lip line, and finished with Mauvelous Lipstick, a soft cool flesh tone.
Soho Night Makeup
Natasha has returned to the café to meet a guy for cocktails and dinner. She is out to impress, and her makeup reflects her mood: sultry and sexy - she looks hot!
The key differences in a night makeup are to do with the lighting and the dress style. With artificial night lighting (in this scene there is low lighting) makeup will lose about 30% of its effect, and will drain the face of colour. It is essential to create a makeup that is stronger and more defined, to counteract this.
Also, Natasha is wearing a gorgeous evening dress in a fabulous colour, and the added sequins require a makeup that ensures that she sparkles too, and not just the frock!
A night makeup can look more sculptural to enhance the bone structure and maximise the lighting's effect. This is where an artist can really create an illusion with the makeup.
Before the foundation was applied, Medium Light Concealer was used to highlight the model's bone structure, particularly on top of the cheekbones, centre of the nose, and the jaw line. Then Dark Concealer was applied to the sides of the nose and under the cheekbones. This was blended well, to highlight and shade the bones of her face.
The same Jojoba Liquid Foundation as the day makeup was carefully applied with the Foundation Brush so as not to shift the sculpturing underneath, and again set with powder on the T-zone. The brows were deepened slightly more than the day look, and extended to create a wider frame to the eyes, then set with Clear Mascara/Brow Gel for a polished finish.
More Mango Glow Blusher was applied along the width of the cheekbones and swept up and along the temples for a lovely bone shape. A peacock green/blue eyeshadow Infiltrate was applied along the bottom and top of the lash line then blended up into the eye socket to create a smoky look. Eyeliner Gel Black Out was applied to the top and bottom lash line and inner eye area, and edged with Eyeliner Gold to make the eyes sparkle and pop!
Lips were again lined with Lipliner Pretty all over the lip area and Lipstick Mauvelous, and topped with shimmering Starlit Lip Gloss Gel.
Bronze Shimmer Powderstroke was lightly brushed over Natasha's face and body to complete a very sexy look.
Tip: - There is no need to have a myriad of different products for day and night makeup. The day shades can be amped up for night, and the addition of a few key products and shades will change a day makeup to night, perfect for any special occasion.
- Hairstylist - Ejay at Strickzin Salon
- Photographer - Tui Hibbs
- Model - Natasha McSwain